Terrell Brothers Road Trip - Day 7: Awe, Trails and Devils
Day 7 was going to be a busy one. Way too busy if the conditions were right, and they were. After a morning shoot near Factory Butte, we’d be driving south along the southern portion of Capitol reef, to the east of reef we photographed the day before. We’d then turn westward on the Burr Trail, taking our third and final climb of the trip on our way to Boulder. From there, we took the scenic Highway 12 to the Hole in the Rock Road to photograph Devil’s Garden. Afterwards it was another scenic drive to our campground at the entrance to Bryce Canyon.
The morning was, as I’d expected, beautiful. Again, the younger of the brothers showed his wisdom by agreeing with his older brother’s suggestion that we photograph at the location we spent the previous evening instead of trying to photograph closer to Factory Butte. Face it, Len was right about the morning shoot at Canyonlands and he was right about where to photograph the morning of Day 7. That did not mean we missed out on images of Factory Butte. This was taken from our campsite, with factory butte to the right.
This was the view from the front of our campsite. We sure can pick ‘em.
How does one describe the quiet presence of pre-dawn?
Although a group had arrived just after dark the previous night to do a professional photo/video shoot for what I suspect was a European outdoor clothing manufacturer (obvious from the fact everyone spoke German and even I wasn’t familiar with what the models (a couple of older, but incredibly fit men) were wearing). They stayed in one location during their entire shoot, with the models changing clothes. Thankfully, they were quite a ways from us the whole morning and it didn’t bother me in the least. It was easy enough to work around them.
Nor, it seems, did they bother Len.
As is the case at sunrise, the light changes quickly, so I tried to take advantage of it. Of course that meant changing lenses a lot and, given the dust and the steady breeze, that also meant that I periodically got dust on my sensor. No, that is not a UFO to the left of the mountain.
Pre-dawn light is interesting. For a bit, things appear fairly bright despite the fact (or rather, because of the fact) that there is no direct sunlight. But as the sun creeps closer and closer to the horizon, the ground appears to darken as the sky begins to brighten. At that point, it is interesting how higher elevated areas can capture the glow of morning well before the lower areas can . . .
. . . but then as the sun starts to rise, everything starts to lighten up, except the shadows. A smart photographer knows to periodically stop shooting and just enjoy the scene. Then, of course, get right back to work! The sun’s movement across the sky stops for no one.
I worked my way around the plateau, making way too many dramatic images than can be posted. The landscape there is truly tremendous in the early morning light.
Eventually the sun rose enough to lose the morning glow and the stark desert light arose like a monster. However, that too affords its own opportunities for image making.
One is then faced with the harsh desert sun and the landscape appears to be a wasteland. The sun’s brightness eventually won out and we (as did the professional photo shoot) decided it was time to quit and head on down the road.
So we packed up, took our time driving past Factory Butte and turned south on the Notom-Bullfrog Road.
While the entire drive is beautiful, it took awhile before the more interesting features appeared near to the roadway. After a couple of stops for quick photographs, . . .
dropped Len off beside the road at a particularly interesting looking stretch, and drove about half a mile down the road to a place where I could safely pull off. I parked the rig, went to the top of the rise to make sure I could see Len, and let him take his time photographing as he walked towards the rig. I took my time enjoying the beautiful landscape with my eyes, then pulled out the Lumix to photograph the rocky landscape near where I was parked.
Sometimes you just want to spend a bit of time at one location to see what you can make of it.
And to find the little gems it might have to offer.
Len eventually made it up the hill and we continued on our way. We stopped at another pull-out, this time an access point to a trail. We climbed the short hillock to see the view and, I must say, it was quite impressive. Both in individual segments . . .
. . . and in the wider formation.
Perhaps on some other occasion we’ll stop here and follow the trail, barely visible near the center-left of the image.
It wasn’t that much further down the road when we hit the Burr Trail and made the climb from the valley bottom to the top of one of the staircases in the Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument. It was to be the third and last of our big climbs/descents of the trip.
We continued onward along the plateau, looking towards our immediate destination.
And from that staircase step looking back the way we came, the landscape looked very different than it did from the top of the Burr Trail Switchbacks, other than the mountains in the background.
Given the time we spent photographing in the morning, we had decided to skip a hike (or two) into canyons that were just south of the bottom of the Burr Trail climb. Either of the hikes would have taken a couple of hours (without photographing time included), and I knew we wanted to have time at Devil’s Garden. Or at least that was our excuse. As I’ve said previously, we’re not young puppies any more and by this stage of the trip Len and I were feeling our ages. Plus, I had a trick card up my sleeve that had not made it onto the itinerary.
I told Len about a small slot canyon we’d visited on our 2015 trip to Utah. I wasn’t too pleased with my images from that trip, but it was a nice little canyon to get a feel for what they’re like and, if the small parking area isn’t full, it’s very accessible being located just off the road. Well the parking area (a pull out big enough for 3 or 4 vehicles, wasn’t full, in fact I drove right past it. I decided to back-track and I’m glad I did.
It was late enough in the day where the sun was casting shadows into the canyon. From the road, it’s just a dark slot with the entrance largely hidden from the road by a couple of trees.
Walking into it, you’re quickly aware that it’s a slot canyon.
Another photographer was making an image in it, so we quickly walked to the end of the slot, where I decided to make a quick composition and Len did his thing.
It wasn’t long before the other photographer was done and we headed back out. The view in this direction was impressive, and we had to work quickly as the canyon was increasingly falling into shadow.
Like all slot canyons, the light inside it reflected profusely and cast everything in a strange red light.
We spent quite a bit of time there - way more than I’d expected - and I must say I’m more pleased with these images than the ones I made in 2015.
From there we headed on to Boulder, rising yet another step and into yet another type of landscape. Unfortunately, Hells Backbone Grill hadn’t opened for the season (well, not for lunch), so we ate at the Burr Trail Grill, which wasn’t too bad. Plus, they had pie to go!
From there we headed south on Scenic Highway 12, one of the most beautiful drives you’ll ever take. At one point, the landscape drops off on both sides of the highway and it feels like you’re driving on a suspended highway (that is if you’re not afraid of heights. If you are, then you’re scared sh*%#@ss). Otherwise, the landscape is of sculpted, light-colored rock where every plant seems to be fighting for a bit of dirt and moisture.
And given the nature of this landscape, water has etched deep into even the most solid of surfaces.
A bit past the Calf Creek area, we began yet another climb. As we were nearing the top I told Len, “Have I got a surprise for you.” Right as we were making yet another hair-pin turn, I turned into a driveway that appeared seemingly out of nowhere and looked to enter a rock face. Once you turn and head upwards, you’re on top of a landing, which is where the Kiva Koffeehouse is located.
I made sure to have Len tell Jill that once McDonalds starts having restaurants with a view like this, then maybe I’ll consider a McMocha or whatever they call their beverage, Until then, it’s places like the Kiva Koffeehouse for me! It’s hard to beat this view while having a latte and a pastry.
After our little break, it wasn’t too much farther to Hole in the Rock Road. The road was as bad (read: bumpy) as I’ve ever seen it. I think it shook more than a couple of fillings loose. The only saving grace (for me at least), is I knew it didn’t last forever and I knew what was awaiting us at our destination. I have no idea what gave Len hope, poor soul.
After a rough nasty ride, we were there.
We agreed to split up and meet back in a couple of hours. I then told Len I had to head off and visit an old friend.
Time is taking a toll on my favorite bush, but it’s showing the tenacity that so many desert plants have. And even though you can’t see it, yes, there are even some buds on the bush.
I must admit, the bush really found a lovely location to plant roots.
As with Goblin Valley, I told myself to slow down and to think through image making. I’ve got plenty of ok, but “not quite” images of Devil’s Garden. This time I wanted to try and make more complex images instead of my instinctive reaction to focus on individual objects and abstract forms. It’s hard to do.
So instead of just interesting “things” I started looking for interesting places, juxtapositions and spaces.
Not all of them are successful, but as Ann has noted, my images from this trip are different than the ones I’ve made before. That is (hopefully) a good thing.
And while I can often see things I missed in the field (the merging of the background arch and the mountain ridge line behind it in the image below makes me want to bang my head against the wall), I can see progress in my landscape efforts.
And working at Devil’s Garden, a place I’m very familiar with, allowed me to not be overawed by the amazing formations, textures and patterns. That allowed me to think about arranging forms and elements in the image and to take advantage of the plethora of lit and shadow areas.
This really is one of my favorite locations to photograph. It’s just a joy working there. And the images can be just plain fun!
The couple of hours passed quickly and I took my time to carefully compose one of the more difficult images to get just so (as Charlie Waite would put it).
I think the above is an image that deserves a bit more attention and definitely printing to reveal everything it has to offer.
By the time I was done with that image it was time to be at the car. I was assuming (actually hoping) that Len would be a bit late too. Especially after I noticed some tracks in the sand on the way back to the car. I couldn’t pass up the opportunity. I quickly threw my bag on the ground and set up for one final image of the day. Can you see the three different sets of tracks? And the story it tells about at least two of the creatures?
Fortunately, even with the extra image, I beat Len to the car. Ann and I share a common characteristic - we both hate making people wait around for us. A short while later (sooner than I’d expected actually) Len showed up. We both agreed that two hours was not nearly enough time that day.
We were soon on our way back on the bumpy Hole in the Rock Road, and then the smooth Highway 12 heading towards Escalante and then Bryce Canyon. We pulled into Ruby’s Campground a mere 10 minutes before they closed for the day.
By the time we were checked in, the clouds had moved in and we decided there wasn’t going to be a sunset (there wasn’t). After a long day of photography, we needed to get ready for an early morning shoot the next day. And like we’d done throughout the trip, we’d just have to wing it on where to be the next morning!